Dowel pins for valve chest positioning. I wondered it if they were necessary or not, but after tightening the screws the chest moved to rear slightly, say by 0.05mm,


The pins were fixed to the chests by Loctite 638.


Steam feeding tube were fixed to the chests by Loctite after annealing. The tubes must be annealed because they have to be bent to accept steam feeding T-joint.
I silver soldered the tube before, but the maximum temperature of steam does not exceed 160℃ and Loctite 638 should have no problems with that temperature. Recently I use Loctile as much as possible if it accept the conditions. I used up Loctite tube with this job. It lasted for a couple of years with only 3mL volume. I ordered a couple of 3mL tubes.


I assembled the cylinder blocks. At first parts were clean in mineral turp.


Some metal chips came out. Parts were blow to dry.


I made a simple liquid gasket dispenser. Put a small amount of liquid gasket in a small plastic bag and cut a corner (Arrowed part).


I found this idea in a Japanese cooking site concerning about decollating cake. By squeezing and moving the bag the liquid gasket is easily dispensed.


Good amount of gasket squeezed out.


The pistons were fitted with 8mm Viton O-rings and applied with oil and pushed into the cylinder. Piston rod gasket was rolled thick Teflon tape as usual. I made the compression ratio of O-rings smaller then ERIC, and the pistons move lighter than ERIC's.


The valve chests were also installed.
I do not expect so much on tightness of drain valves. By plugging the port by finger and pressing the piston rod, the rod does not spring back as of ERIC. Leaking is obvious, but I do not care so much. Small leakage of seam from the drain valves rather looks nice.



inserted by FC2 system